Above: Queenie wore my double-ply rex rabbit scarf (peach) in Zurich recently.

You may pre-order pieces directly from Adrienne Landau if you want to guarantee delivery. Delivery begins around the same time my merchandise hit the retailers’ shelves. Click HERE to order online.

Bryanboy: A lot of young people go into fashion design with the dream of one day pursuing their own label. Considering your path, would it be ideal to contribute to the work of existing designers or focus on developing themselves as a brand?

Francisco Costa: They have to focus on developing their own personality and then everything will fall into place. When I ended up at Calvin Klein, I felt like this is an ideal situation because it is a brand with so much strength and I really try to bring what I like in combination with what Calvin did. I feel very blessed to have such a structure under me, but I’m also very nurturing to young students.

For instance, I had somebody that I hired temporarily who was an architecture major and had no idea what fashion was. So I said, “come work for us and see how you like it.” He showed interest. After awhile, I hooked him up with this one organization which held an international contest. Next thing you know, he was one of the participants and he ended up becoming very successful with it. Then he came to me after winning the contest and asked me what he should do next. I said, I don’t know, go open your own business because I felt like it’s the right time. This is a guy who has a lot of talent. But then again, maybe he is young enough and he could explore. Every experience is individual, right?

I’ve been working for a long time. Andre Leon-Talley came to me a long time ago, when I used to work for Gucci. I was in London and he asked me, “why don’t you open your own business?” I said, “Andre, I am truly happy.” I made a conscious decision not to. I could have done something, I could have played, I could have. But in retrospect, I am extremely happy.

Bryan: Speaking of Gucci… Tom Ford is known for his va-va-voom, high-octane, glamazon aesthetic whereas Calvin Klein Collection is the polar opposite — pure, luxurious, modern American sportswear. How did you refine your aesthetic considering the differences between the two brands?

Francisco: Interestingly enough, what Tom Ford did was really based on Calvin’s aesthetic. All the advertisements, the imagery, the sexiness — they were all very, very strong and very Calvin in many ways. So I don’t think that was a challenge so much because, you know, we are talking about the same thing.

The primary challenge for me was, as the business grew bigger and bigger, after it was sold it went from $700 million to $8 billion, the company exploded into so many different areas. The challenge for me is to keep that flame of the collection genuine and really protect it. So whatever it is that we are doing has to have a true essence and not just an essence, but a personality that wouldn’t be mixed up with all the other products in other categories.

Bryan: That’s another question for me — how do you bridge Calvin Klein Collection, your collection, which is very architectural, pure, modern and very technical whereas whereas the general public’s perception of Calvin Klein the brand? You have sexy, you have provocative, you have underwear, you have fragrance… how do you bridge the two?

Francisco: It’s all about securing that high-level position. A brand can actually exist both in high-end and low-end categories. It’s seamless. It’s totally seamless. If you think of the Calvin Klein lifestyle, you get it. A woman is able to explore both ends of the spectrum. One can have extraordinary clothes, very fine clothes while at the same time, have a lifestyle that’s cool. The juxtaposition is very modern. A cool woman goes shopping and mixes it all up today. I think that’s the most exciting part because it reflects independence.

Bryan: You’re one of the very few designers who actually push new fabrics, new, modern techniques in fabrics. What’s your relationship with fabric?

Francisco: I love fabrics! That’s the most organic part of designing because its tactile and you have to be part of the development. For example, for Fall/Winter 2013, it took me three years to get certain mills to agree to develop the same kind of fabric. Because you buy cashmere from one mill, you buy suiting fabric from another, you buy this from another, so you have to make them agree to make the same thing at the same time. It’s very costly for these people to change their techniques and what have you. A lot of fabrics for fall, for instance, those are actually woven and not cut-out.

I could have achieved that by cutting and boiling but I didn’t. It thrills me to be experimental — this is how you learn about the essence of fabric. Experimentation triggers fabric mills to create other things and further their development. It’s the same experimentation that would be seen two, even three seasons later. It’s all a great exercise.

Bryan: Do you start your design process with fabric itself or do you conceptualize shapes and silhouettes before deciding which fabric to choose?

Francisco: It goes both ways. A collection starts with an idea and could take up to years to materialize. And then all of sudden, you saw something on the street that inspires you and feels really relevant and it’s just this is the way to go. The design process comes in very different forms but ultimately, fabric is really the catalyst for a collection to work or not.

Bryan: If your next ten years of work could be described into one word, what would it be?

Francisco: In one word?

Bryan: Go on…

Francisco: I think it’s… I could give you three words (both laugh)

Bryan: Three is good!

Francisco: I think what I do is, you know, essentially provocative, strong and current and strong in many ways. If it had to be described in one word, I would have to say having a pulse. Pulse, pulse.

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Don’t forget — tune in at 8PM Eastern Time to watch the prestigious SCAD (Savannah College of Art and Design) Fashion show.

Look 1 – Dolce & Gabbana sunglasses, Christopher Kane t-shirt, Timo shorts, Christopher Kane beach towel; Look 2 – 3.1 Phillip Lim top and shorts, COS sandals, Furla bag

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The very entrepreneurial Wong sisters were incredibly kind and generous. They showed Queenie and I an amazing time in their city. Being with them made me miss my own sisters back in the Philippines.

A lot of people wouldn’t consider Zurich one of the liveliest cities in the world, but I can definitely say that it is one of my favorites in Europe. I was amazed at how clean and manicured everything was! The old, ornate buildings were stacked neatly together in an almost random order, but it gave a kind of charm to the whole experience. Also, the small burst of colors on window shutters or small details on buildings caught my eye. You REALLY get a feel for how much money there is in that city. Afterall, it’s a city of bankers…

One me: bag and shoes by Valentino, trousers by Paul Smith, shirt and pocket square by Zegna, hat by Duckie Brown for Perry Ellis

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2013 featuring Leonardo DiCaprio

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1974 featuring Robert Redford

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On me: Suit, orange shirt, jewelry all by Calvin Klein Collection

It was lovely reuniting with familiar and friendly faces in addition to the Calvin Klein team and Executives: my ultra chic friend Lily Kwong flew in from Gabon, Laura Burdese, Calvin Klein tumblr contributor Hanneli Mustaparta and Ulrich Grimm who is the Creative Director of both Men’s & Women’s Shoes and Accessories. Rita Ora performed at the celebratory party in the evening and my beloved DJ Mike Nouveau spinned at the festivities.

The new Calvin Klein watches and jewelry collection features clean lines and characteristic curved metal surfaces. Some of the highlights from the 2013 line include the ck dress watch, the unisex ck eager timepiece, the ck classic watch that has been newly redesigned for 2013 and ck undulate, a key jewelry offering for the season including two pendant necklaces, rings and delicate earrings that showcase sleek and rounded shapes. Overall, the new collection can be described as sleek, elegant and ultra functional. Totally in synch with the brand’s modern and minimalist DNA. Very Calvin Klein.

On me: Jacket, top, shorts all by Calvin Klein spring/summer 2013 menswear

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I had a long list of places to visit in the city, but at the top was the Centro Historico, or the historical center of Mexico City. At its heart was the Zocalo, a plaza lined with immense buildings with ancient facades stained by the pollution and hundreds of years of rich history. Standing at the center of it all, listening to the bells of the cathedral, I felt as though I could have easily been in some other old-world European city.

Queenie and I left our hotel, the Condesa DF in Condesa, at the crack of dawn to beat the crowds and traffic. We spent the entire morning wandering around and paid our dues at some of the old, very old fixtures, such as the Palacio Nacional, Cathedral Metropolitana, Palacio de Bellas Artes, Museo Nacional de Arte and Palacio de Correos. We got back to the hotel just in time to make the last call for breakfast. We couldn’t have had a more productive morning!

On me: Saint Laurent Paris polka-dot button-down shirt (click HERE to buy), 3.1 Phillip Lim shorts (click HERE to buy), patent leather brogues by Gucci (click HERE to buy). On Queenie: Theory shirt, Prada backpack, All Saints jeans.